Mt. Pumori Expedition (7169m)

Introduction

Mt. Pumori is perhaps the most popular mountain among mountains over 7000mtrs it is not deemed to be severely technically difficult never the less it does present a fairly significant challenge. Many people say that a climb of Pumori is an ideal preparation for those aspiring for the more technical 8000m peaks including the Mt Everest. Mount Pumori  is situated 8km west of Mount Everest along the Nepal-Tibet Border. The first climb of the mountain was made in 1964 by a German Swiss expedition team, the name Pumori means an unmarried daughter in the Sherpa language.  Although a 7,000 plus meter peak it is as mentioned somewhat technically challenging in places  and  there are large sections where the climber is open to wild and exposed conditions.The rewards from the summit are special, some stunning views of the peaks around including Lhotse and Everest.

We attempt to summit via the standard route on the South East Ridge The peak straddles the Nepalese-Tibetan border. To begin with the southeast buttress in its lower reaches needs to be negotiated before traversing open snow-slopes to get to a Col to the East Ridge. Pumori is a grade 3 snow and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitude. We follow the route along the South-East Ridge. Generally three camps are set up above the base camp.Base camp is set up at 5300m. then on through the glaciers for around four hours to reach Camp 1 at around 5700m. From Camp 1 we continue up to climb a face that varies in gradiant from fourty to sixty degrees on through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200m. From camp two we climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach Camp 3 at around 6480m. Then a push up through crevasses to climb up to Pumori cliff and then on to the summit.

Mt. Pumori Expedition (7169m)

Pumori is situated among some of the world’s best-known mountains and most spectacular scenery.The route is mixed and varied but while challenging at times the climb is not of high technical difficulty. We’ll establish as mentioned at least three camps above base camp fixing ropes when necessary. You need to be a strong and experienced climber to attempt Pumori and often the mountain is used as a training ground for more technical peaks in the future.

Itinerary

Day 01 : Meeting upon arrival at Kathmandu international airport, transfer to Hotel.
Day 02-04 : Stay in Kathmandu for the official procedure, Overnight at Hotel.
Day 05 : Fly to Lukla and start trek to Phakding, Overnight at Lodge.
Day 06 : Trek to Namche Bazaar, Overnight at Lodge.
Day 07 : Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization, Overnight at Lodge.
Day 08 : Trek to Pangboche, Overnight at Lodge.
Day 09 : Trek to Dingboche, Overnight at Lodge.
Day 10 : Trek to Lobuche, Overnight at Lodge.
Day 11 : Trek to Pumori Base Camp, Overnight at Tented camp.
Day 12-31 : Climbing period, Overnight at Tented camp.
Day 32 : Trek to Pangboche, Overnight at Lodge.
Day 33 : Trek to Namche Bazaar, Overnight at Lodge.
Day 34 : Trek to Lukla, Overnight at Lodge.
Day 35 : Fly back to Katmandu, Overnight at Hotel
Day 36 : Rest in Kathmandu, Overnight at Hotel.
Day 37 : Transfer to airport, departure on your own destination