Equipments and Mountaineering Rules & Regulations

Equipments

Group:
    Fixed rope
    Main rope
    Medicine
    Oxygen, Mask and regulator
    Climbing tents, food, fuel, light (up to summit from base camp)

Personal:

    Down Sleeping Bag 1/1 for ABC and climbing
    Down Jacket 1
    Gore-Tex jacket Trouser or any company
    Climbing boot double best company
    Trekking Boot 1 pair
    ICE-axe with Ice hamber 1/2
    Rucksack 2
    Crampon 1/2 set
    Stick 2 set
    Harness - 1 set
    Get up (Boot clover) 1 set
    Snow Glass - 2
    Main rope 15 miters
    ICE Crew – 1 piece
    Sable small –1 piece
    Mattress 1 piece
    Carbine 2 single + 2 lock
    Head Light – 2 piece
    Wind Proof Jacket & trouser
    Down Trouser
    Wind Proof Trouser
    Water Bottle
    Woolen Globe 3 set
    Bag Cover
    Wind mask for climbing
    Climbing clove 3 best quality
    Shocks for climbing - 6 pairs
    Personal Medicine
    Eight finger
    Knife

 


 

Mountaineering Rules and Regulations

Royalty for the Mountaineering expedition
(A) For the Mount Everest (Sagarmatha)

(1) The royalty for the mountaineering expedition team not exceeding seven in number from the route other than the general route (Southeast route) will be US$ 50,000.

(2) The royalty for the mountaineering expedition from general route (Southeast route) for the mountaineering expedition team will be as follows: -

Member of the mountaineering expedition team Royalty (U. S. Dollars):

One Member
    

25,000

Two Members
    

40,000

Three Members
    

48,000

Four Members
    

56,000

Five Members
    

60,000

Six Members
    

66,000

Seven Members
    

70,000

Additional Member
(Up to 12 person)
    

10,000 Per Person

(3) Other not more than five members may be added in the mountaineering expedition team beyond the number as it is mentioned in clause (1) and (2).

(B) For the other Mountains: -
(1) The royalty for the other mountain shall be as follows: -

(B) For the other Mountains: -
(1) The royalty for the other mountain shall be as follows: -

Mountaineering Royalty (USD $)
Name of the Mountains     For expedition including up to seven members     For each additional member exceeding seven members (up to a total of twelve)

Peaks above 8,000m
    10,000     1500

Peaks of 7501 to 8,000m
    4000     500

Peaks of 7001 to 7500m
    3000     400

Peaks of 6501 to 7000m
    2000     300

Peaks of less than 6501m
    1000     200

(2) Other not more than five members may be added in the mountaineering expedition team beside as prescribed in clause (1).

Note: If there is any change in the royalty amount before receiving the briefing from the Ministry even after one has already paid the royalty under this Regulation, the mountaineering expedition team shall pay the changed amount of the royalty.

The leader of the expedition team is required to pay the full amount of the climbing permit within two months of the date of climbing. In cases of failure to pay within this time period permission may be annulled.

Environmental Deposit:
Teams attempting peaks within the Khumbu Region must deposit US$ 4,000 for Everest expeditions, US$ 3,000 for other 8,000m peaks and US$ 2,000 for peaks less than 8,000m. This deposit is refundable upon the team removing all their garbage on completion of the expedition.

Liaison Officers:
The primary function of a liaison officer is to ensure that the mountaineering regulations and laws of Nepal are adhered to. The expedition team must cover all costs of the liaison officer. This includes wages, equipment allowance, transport, meals and suitable accommodation for the entire expedition period. The liaison officer must also be insured against accidents.

Filming Permits:
Expedition teams wishing to make documentary films of their climb must obtain government permission and pay an associated permit fee.

Radio and Telephone Permits:
Operating licenses must be obtained and paid for to use two-way radio equipment and telephones.

Seasons:
There are four main mountaineering seasons - spring (March to May), summer (June to August), autumn (September to November) and winter (December to February).
 

CLIMBING 'TREKKING PEAKS': - Rules & Regulation

Climbing Rules:
In exercise of the powers conferred by His Majesty's Government, Nepal Mountaineering Association has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya. These rules will come into force at once.

Definition:
Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the same as those for His Majesty's Government Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.

Permission:
Any person or mountaineering team desirous of climbing the peak listed in Appendix '1' must receive permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association. Application to climb the peak must be made in the form as prescribed in Appendix '2'. Permission to climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only. Permission may be extended, if necessary, for another period of two weeks. The period of permission granted relates to time spent for climbing above the base camp. The trek to and from the base camp is not included. Application for climbing permit may be made at any time by the concerned mountaineering team. Permit will be granted on a first come first serve basis. Each climbing party will be given a permit as prescribed in Appendix '3'. The right to give permission to another party for climbing the same peak during the same period is reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association. Nepal Mountaineering Association will recommend to Immigration Office of His Majesty's Government for obtaining trekking permit of the area to the team members.

Refund:
In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some other reasons, the feels already paid will not be refunded. Every individual or party granted a climbing permit shall be accompanied by a Sirdar / Guide, who must be registered with NMA.

Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide:
a) To assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food, etc. And to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability.
b) To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case the party spends more than the prescribed time limit in the mountain.
c) To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of their permit.
d) To ensure that the climbers (trekkers) follow the specified route.
e) To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
f) To report to NMA any infringement of the climbing rules.
g) To report any serious incidents to the nearest police post. The Sirdar Guide shall be employed from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is finished. The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with the following facilities:

1. Food and tent accommodation:
Climbing equipment and necessary clothing if required to go above the base camp.

2. Insurance:
All employees going above the base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value of Rupees. 200,000.

3. Nomination of representative in Kathmandu:
Each party granted climbing permit would nominate representative in Kathmandu to act as liaison between NMA and the climbing party. The representative may be an individual or an organization registered with NMA. The nominated representative will be responsible for making necessary arrangements for the climbing party in case of accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.

4. Submission of report:
On the conclusion of the climb and on return to Kathmandu, the party will submit a report to NMA in the form. Power to cancel the permit: - NMA may cancel or withdraw the climbing permit any time with or without showing any particular reason. Non-compliance of the regulation: Where any trekking party acts in contravention to the climbing permit or indulges in acts of unsocial or outrageous behavior contrary to the customs and culture of the people of Nepal, NMA may recommend to His Majesty Government to take necessary measures in accordance with Article 37 of Mountaineering Regulations 1979.

5. Protection of Environment:
Base Camp and other camps will be left perfectly clean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials, such as fix rope, pitons, etc shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed off.

6. Revision of the Regulations:
Any article of this regulation may be revised or amended by NMA with prior permission of Nepal Government.

Note: All rates effective from 18 September 2002.
 
Group "A" NMA Peaks
 
S.N.     Name of the Peak     Hight     Region     Permit Fee (USD $)

1.
    Mt. Cholatse      6440m     Khumbu     500.00

2.
    Mt. Machermo     6273m     Mahalangur     500.00

3.
    Mt. Kyazo Ri      6186m     Mahalangur     500.00

4.
    Mt. Phari Lapcha      6017m     Mahalangur     500.00

5.
    Mt. Nirekha     6159m     Mahalangur     500.00

6.
    Mt. Langsisa Ri     6427m     Jugal     500.00

7.
    Mt. Ombigaichen     6340m     Mahalangur     500.00

8.
    Mt. Bokta     6143m     Kanchenjunga     500.00

9.
    Mt. Chekigo      6257m     Gaurishankar     500.00

10.
    Mt. Lobuje West     6145m     Khumbu     500.00

11.
    Mt. Larkya Peak     6010m     Manaslu     500.00

12.
    Mt.ABI     6097m     Mahalangur     500.00

13.
    Mt. Yurba Himal     6035m     Langtang Himal     500.00

14.
    Mt. Chhukung Ri     5550m     Khumbu     500.00

15.
    Mt. Yala Peak     5732.m     Langtang     500.00

Fee Structure for Group 'A' NMA Peaks:
Royalty for up to seven members: USD 500.00
Royalty for each additional member up to 12 persons: USD 100.00.
 
Group "B" NMA Peaks
 
S.N.     Name of the Peaks     Hight     Region     Permit Fee (USD $)

1.
    Hiunchuli Peak     6441m     Annapurna Himal, Gandaki     Khumbu

2.
    Singu Chuli (fluted Peak)     6501m     Annapurna Himal, Gandaki     350.00

3.
    Mera Peak      6654m     Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha     350.00

4.
    Kusum Kangru Peak     6367m     Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha     350.00

5.
    Kwangde Ri Peak     6011m     Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha     350.00

6.
    Chulu West Peak     6419m     Manang District, Gandaki     350.00

7.
    Chulu East Peak     6584m     Manang District, Gandaki     350.00

8.
    Imja Tse (Island Peak)     6169m     Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha     350.00

9.
    Pachhermo Peak      6187m     Rolwaling Himal, Janakpur     350.00

10.
    Lobuche East Peak     6119m     Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha     350.00

11.
    Ramdung "Go" Peak     5925m     Rolwaling Himal, Janakpur     350.00

12.
    Pisang Peak     6091m     Manang District, Gandaki     350.00

13.
    Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)     5663m     Annapurna Himal, Gandaki     350.00

14.
    Khongma Tse (Mehra Peak)     5849m     Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha     350.00

15.
    Ganja La Chuli (Naya Kanga)     5806.m     Langtang Himal, Bagmati     350.00

16.
    Pokhalde Peak     5550m     Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha     350.00

17.
    Mardi Himal     5587m     Annapurna Himal, Gandaki     350.00

18.
 
    Paldor Peak
      5732.m
      Langtang Himal, Bagmati
      350.00
 

Fee Structure for Group 'B' NMA Peaks:
Royalty for 1-4 members: USD 350.00
Royalty for 5-8 members: USD 350.00 + USD 40.00 per person
Royalty for 9-12 members: USD 510.00 + USD 25.00 per person

Note: Maximum number of members in one team is 12.

Garbage Deposit for all 33 NMA Peaks:
A Garbage Deposit fee of USD 250.00 payable to NMA is required to obtain permits for all 33 NMA peaks. Refunds on the Garbage Deposit shall be as per NMA provisions.
 
Over 8000 meters Mountains in the World:
 
S.N.     Mountain     Hight     First to Summit     Date     Nationality     Range / Location

1.
    Mt.Everest     8848m     Sir Edmund Hilary & Tenzing Norgay Sherpa     May 29, 1953     New Zealander & Nepalese     Himalayas / Nepal

2.
    Mt. K2 (Godwinausten)     8611m     Achille Compagnoni Lino Lacede     July 31, 1954     Italian     Karakoram / Pakistan

3.
    Mt. Kanchanjungha     8586m     George Band
Joe Brown
Norman Hardie     May 25, 1955     British     Himalayas / Nepal

4.
    Mt. Lhotse     8516m     Fritz Luchsinger
Emest Reiss     May 18, 1956     Swiss     Himalayas / Nepal

5.
    Mt. Makalu     8463m     Jean Couzy
Lionel Terray
Jean Franco
Guido Magnone
Jean Bouvier
Serge Coupe
Pierre Leroux
Andre Vialatte
Gyalgen Norbu     May 15, 1955     French     Himalayas / Nepal

6.
    Mt. Cho Oyu     8201m     Herbert Tichy
Sepp Jochler
Pasang Dawa Lama     October 19, 1954     Austrian     Himalayas / Nepal

7.
    Mt. Dhaulagiri     8167m     Kurt Dimberger
Peter Diener
Emest Forrer
Albine Scelbert
Michel Vaucher
Hugo Webber
Nawang Dorge
Nayan Dorge     May 13, 1960     Swiss     Himalayas / Nepal

8.
    Mt. Manaslu     8163m     Toshio Imanishi     May 9, 1956     Japanese     Himalayas / Nepal

9.
    Nanga Parvat      8125m     Hermann Bhul
Gyalgen Norbu     July 3, 1953     Austrian     Himalayas / Nepal

10.
    Mt. Annapurna I     8091m     Maurice Herzog     June 3, 1950     French     Himalayas / Nepal

11.
    Gasherbrum I     8068m     Louis Lechenal
Andrew Kauffmann     July 4, 1958     American     Karakoram / Pakistan

12.
    Broad Peak     8047m     Peter Schoening
Kurt Diemberger
Hermann Bhul
Markus Schmock     June 9, 1957     Austrian     Karakoram / Pakistan

13.
    Gasherbrum II     8035m     GaFritz Wintersteller
Sepp Larch     July 7, 1956     Austrian     Karakoram / Pakistan

14.
    Mt. Shishapangma     8013m     Fritz Morvel
Hans Willenpart
10 Climbers from Tibet (China)     May 2, 1964     Chinese     Himalayas / Tibet (China)

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